You're focused on the wrong thing when you shop

Geneva updates, news, and more!

Before sending one of the longest shopping newsletters, comprised of sale, full price, secondhand, and vintage items (coming this Sunday!), I wanted to share best practices for shopping online. Some of the advice here will be familiar, but I wanted to have it all in one place for you. 

At the end of the newsletter, I have announcements and updates on using the Geneva app, a fashion app I tested for you, and more.

Fabric content

Recently, I worked with a client who needed a work wardrobe refresh. One of her boundaries was that she didn’t wear garments composed of synthetic fibers, and I immediately switched to teaching mode. You must know one thing about me: I will fight for the civil rights of synthetic fabrics until I croak because the sustainability movement lied to us and caused irreparable damage. 

I’ve said it before, and I’ll repeat it: THERE IS A PLACE FOR SYNTHETIC FIBERS IN YOUR WARDROBE. Why? 

• Synthetic fibers can be manipulated in ways that natural fibers can’t. You miss out on incredible styles when you stick to this arbitrary rule. An example is pleats! Very rarely can you find pleated garments in natural fibers. 

• In January, I wrote about layering for the winter, and I discussed the downsides of wearing cotton as your base layer. Cotton will keep you cool in the summer, but in the winter, it retains moisture when you sweat and keeps you cold regardless of how many other layers you have because it does not wick moisture or dry quickly. You know what does? Polyester!

• If you are concerned with sustainability, focus on buying clothes you will wear for a long time instead of a silk garment you’ll occasionally or seldom wear. I do not know anyone who relaxes when they wear silk (except me) because it is a delicate fabric that is hard to care for if you do not know the best practices for maintaining its luster and fluidity. If you hand wash silk by rinsing the soap residue with vinegar, it eventually becomes dull and stiff. Some synthetic fibers mimic silk's fluidity and do not require the same stress and effort to care for. You’re missing out on peace of mind, babe!

• Synthetic fibers are also colorfast, meaning you can safely wash them with other garments without worrying about the dye bleeding into and ruining your other garments. (Of course, check the garment content before laundering!) They are less likely to fade after every wash, which means a longer lifespan. Synthetic fibers are typically wrinkle-resistant! If you are someone who refuses to spend a second of your life ironing clothes, you are seen and welcomed here. 

• Synthetic fibers are durable and will last longer if cared for properly. And while they aren’t biodegradable, they have smaller carbon footprints because they require less water to produce. Consider this if sustainability is important to you!

You should consider fabric content in relation to your lifestyle and the purpose of each garment. If you travel for work and all your work shirts are natural fibers, consider packing a steamer or hope that the hotel iron is a high-quality one, and we know that is rarely the case. Be honest with yourself, and stop listening to the sustainability brigade. They don’t know what is going on; read this newsletter I wrote on sustainability if you are still panicking.

Stop browsing every sale!

If you think this is about you, it is. You’ve heard this before, but it didn’t stick, so I’m repeating it, put your phone down and walk away from the Ssense sale. People who can’t walk away from sales are dangerous to society, and I am so serious. Your mother was wrong; the best time to shop isn’t always during a sale because you’re likely buying something you don’t need, and you know this, but you continue making the same mistake. I am here to walk you through your healing and recovery. 

Buy it at full price

This is a mistake I make sometimes, but I am in recovery. My taste levels haven’t changed much in the last ten years, so it is silly when I am overly analytical about my purchases. However, since rebuilding my wardrobe, I have abandoned my anxiety about paying full price; the likelihood of me finding it at the right time on sale is low since I am not a chronic sale browser. I have missed on garments and accessories that would have brought wardrobe clarity because I spent too much time overthinking something I should have immediately purchased. What happens to most of us is a wardrobe filled with garments that were kinda sorta what we wanted but not entirely. AND the energy spent on hunting down the garment on the secondhand network is not worth it when you could have added it to the cart and moved on with your life. 

Why is $30 for shipping a $500 garment a deal breaker?

This is a self-drag and a call-in to all my girls who do this nonsense. You found the perfect black boots and added them to your cart, but you abandoned them because shipping was $30, and now you don’t have your perfect boots because you’ve drawn the line at the wrong place. $30 is the price of two mediocre cocktails at that bar you won’t stop going to. It is 6% of $500 if we’re getting technical, and if you can spend $500, $30 isn’t what should give you a pause. It’s time to get serious and stop being childish. 

Return policy

On the $30 shipping note, if it will cost $60 or more to return that item, then a pause at checkout or total abandonment of the cart is justified. I am guilty of never looking at return policies, especially when I shop at unfamiliar places, and I am consistently stuck with garments I cannot return. There is an almost $400 pair of jeans in my closet that I couldn’t return to Saks Potts because the return shipping costs were almost half the price of the garment if I wanted a fast and trackable option. I could have avoided this situation if I bought them on Ssense instead. 

Instead of browsing a sale, check for the item on Google Shopping to see if you can find it cheaper, with a better shipping option or a flexible return policy! So many businesses stock various brands; you may find what you’re looking for if you are diligent. 

Price

When I work with clients, my job includes helping them understand what to spend the most on and what we can find cheaply. My rules are:

• Spend more on quality shoes. Unfortunately, this is an area most shoppers skimp on. Buying quality shoes is not only good for your health but for your wallet. A well-made shoe will affect your gait and complement your outfit. 

• Decide what your “basics” are and spend more on the best you can afford. I wear a lot of white tanks and tailored trousers, so I buy high-quality cotton tanks from Nu Swim, Toteme, Leset, ReDone, and Gil Rodriguez, and I am considering this one from TANKair. 

• Hear me out: High-quality underwear. The garments closest to your skin take the most beating because of sweat, dirt, and oil, so look for undies that won’t unravel after a couple of washes. I love Wolford, Pansy, and Hello Beautiful.

• Spend more on outerwear, and thank me later. If you are lucky, you might be able to snag something that initially costs $2000 for $500 or less on retail platforms. I prefer shopping secondhand for coats on eBay and Vestiaire. 

• Consider buying it on sale or secondhand when participating in a trend. If you love it, find the best quality you can afford. 

Niche or conceptual garments

I discussed this concept in my newsletter about the limitations to finding your personal style last year, but I must elaborate since this continues to be a phenomenon. Niche garments have elements of a classic style and include non-conventional qualities. They are not necessarily trendy. 

I went on Ssense to find niche garments to give you an idea of what I mean:

I love these jeans from Y/Project. However, I wouldn’t recommend them to everyone because they may not fit seamlessly into their wardrobe. I currently have 12 pairs of classic jeans in various styles, and buying this would be a fun addition to my wardrobe; I would be fine if I wore it occasionally. The mistake most people make is buying something like this and expecting it to be an everyday pair of jeans. (I am sure it can be an everyday item for a small group of people, but most of us are not those people.) I think I like them even better in black. 

I am obsessed with this skirt from ShuShu/Tong. It is a unique take on a classic pleated mini skirt that I would never recommend to anyone except as a fun addition. I am considering buying it because after removing the bow at the waist, I plan to wear it with an oversized t-shirt, loafers, or one of my slip-on shoes. I wouldn’t buy it at full price since it isn’t something I would wear often, but it is a no-brainer on sale because I know I can style it in at least three ways. 

This Ottolinger jacket is very cool and would look incredible with jeans, a navy skirt with a white tank underneath, or navy pants and silver earrings. And although I have given you three styling options, the stripes, and style will be limiting for most people. This isn’t a jacket you can throw on most of your outfits, so I’d only recommend it after you’ve bought classic styles.

Don’t forget the shoes!

As a stylist, I find that shoes are usually where most clients need help. And while out in the world or looking at photos online, shoes are typically what ruins most people’s outfits because they are an afterthought, and I am distraught. Look for classic styles and play with silhouettes, colors, and textures. Save the conceptual and niche shoes after you have a strong foundation. Do not start with these (a niche item) if you’re looking for easy summer mules. While I love these shoes, I often see people wearing them wrongly. Proportions matter when you choose a shoe like that, as opposed to something like this that will be more versatile. 

Vintage garments

I had to take several deep breaths before writing this out because this is personal. I have noticed that most people approach shopping vintage by overvaluing brand name over style and wearability. Most have wardrobes filled with name-brand clothes that are restrictive and, frankly, ugly because they found them at an affordable price. What a waste! Newsflash!!! Gucci, Blumarine, Versace, and Ferre made some ugly things, and you are not obligated to buy them!

Honorable mentions

• Repeating this: You are not Bob the Builder; some garments are not worth fixing.

• Make a list, or use the spreadsheet I shared, to keep track of items you need. As you find them, buy them or add them to the list of things you want when they go on sale. 

• Make a group chat for clothes of trusted friends and talk about items you’re considering if you’re on the fence. This is one of the best ways to engage with trendy fashion before or never committing financially. Some items I will share on Sunday are trendy; if you’re unsure, check the return shipping policy, and if there is flexibility, buy it and return it if it doesn’t work. I recently bought this EDL mini skirt and bodysuit from Beaufille, which I’d been eyeing for some time after discussing it with my friend. I put them on my credit card, tried them immediately, and knew I’d return them. For the skirt, my ass cheeks would be on every surface I sit on, and I’m not about that life. The bodysuit was too small (lengthwise) in the size I got (M), which was surprising since every top or bodysuit is usually too long for me. I even ordered two colors for the bodysuit because I couldn’t decide between red and black. 

• Use the wishlist option, PLEASE! I hate creating user accounts for websites because I am a lazy person. However, I bought almost everything I wanted because I didn’t rely on my memory.

• A new thing I started doing when I began rebuilding my wardrobe: buying things only available at full price, trying them on, returning them, and then waiting for a sale. This way, you know it already fits, and you can commit if the return shipping isn’t flexible on sale items. I have saved and time (overthinking and pining) with this practice. 

• You probably already know this, but for those who don’t, turn on Google Shopping price tracking alerts for every item you’re waiting for on sale! Here’s how: 

Final notes and announcements!

• I am finally standing behind Style Book as a clean way to keep an inventory of your wardrobe, plan outfits, save inspiration, and more. I paid for the app a few days ago to browse it for you to be sure it was worth it, and I plan on recommending it to ALL of my clients. It is an alternative for those overwhelmed by a spreadsheet. It costs $4.99, and it is so worth it!

• I have set up the “in search of room” on the Geneva app, and here is the link! You can share anytime! I have to make the rooms private because anyone can join if I don't, and this space is exclusively for paying subscribers. Click around, and read the home rules and the rules for the “in search of” room before posting. You can post anytime! I have made the first post so you know. 

• I will use my shop IG to promote and discuss newsletter-related activities because I have a larger following there, and it streamlines everything! I am working on many things I can’t share yet, and I hope you follow along to keep up. I won’t stop using my personal IG until you all get used to it, so don’t fret! I will cross-post!