My mum was right; the best time to buy a coat is when you don't need one
How to buy a coat part 1
My relationship with coats changed when I confronted my tumultuous relationship with winter.
I bought a coat in Kansas City out of pure necessity; very little thought was involved in my frantic purchases. Instead of thinking of the coats as part of the outfit or as THE outfit, I bought coats that were incoherent with my wardrobe or that I didn’t care for, making my outfits appear forced and incomplete. Looking back at most of those winter outfits, I notice that coats are absent, not because I took my coat off to snap — because I wasn’t wearing one, which I find appalling. After all, Kansas City winters teetered on freezing and torture.
My clinical and situational depression are my oldest friends. I attributed my situational depression to those harsh winters until I moved to NYC. Weeks before my move, I purchased a vintage Gucci coat on eBay for $600, and I didn’t consider whether it would work with my wardrobe or what occasions I needed it. I was more concerned with having a beautiful coat than the practicality and function of white wool on commutes. Within weeks of living in NYC, I bought another long wool coat I found at a vintage fair in Chelsea. Despite my clinical depression, I was out and about that winter, and much of it is documented with photos of myself in both coats.
I didn’t stay long enough to resolve my coat dilemma, but I took something else back to Kansas City: Winter isn’t the reason for my situational depression; I love knits; I love snow; hibernating is my passion; it’s soup season!
Last year, I told you I would purchase more outerwear, and man, did I do that! My head swells whenever my Pilates instructor comments on a coat I wear to class. (Thank you all, especially you, Nikki!) Knowing I have the coat I need for every outfit has unearthed a new delight for dressing up!
In my joyful state, I felt I could finally, once and for all, address the pregnant coat question you all have. I asked you on Instagram about the obstacles you face while searching for a coat, and here are the answers that stood out:
With your concerns in mind, everything I learned while rebuilding my outerwear closet, and my experience with finding a volunteer several winter coats, I may have some answers.
I initially thought I’d be writing about “how to buy a trenchcoat” until two of the three volunteers changed their minds about wanting one. I seized the opportunity and sent a list of questions to each volunteer, and we emailed until we found them their perfect coat. Here’s an edited transcript with one of the volunteers:
Joanna
I sent the same questions to all of the volunteers. Joanna’s concise and informative responses helped me find her a coat first. In this section, I have included the questions I asked her, her responses, and follow-up emails before we began shopping.
Measurements: (I asked Joanna both for her body’s measurements and for the ideal measurements of her new coat)
Height: 173 cm, Bust: 86 cm, Waist: 71 cm, Shoulder-to-shoulder: 44 cm, Sleeve (shoulder-to-cuff): 58cm
Ideal sleeve from a coat I have today: Funnily enough, it is exactly 58 cm! It's a leather coat I have that works nicely :)
The ideal length of coat (starting from the back of my neck to the back of my shins): 120 cm
This length is to the lower half of my shins. I also like ankle length! Open to both.
Do you own/have you owned a trenchcoat? Did/Do you like it? Please send a photo if you have one. Why did you get rid of it?
Joanna: Yes, I have owned a trenchcoat before. I got a vintage brown Burberry coat for $30 at the flea market. It was innocently sitting in a pile of clothing unbeknownst to anyone else. I liked it in theory… but the shoulders were too tight for me, and the arm length too short. It got uncomfortable wearing it, and it just felt cramped inside. It also was a bit too 'structured' looking and specifically had an A-line silhouette, and I want something a bit more fluid and sophisticated. I haven't gotten rid of it yet, but I plan on selling it soon.
Subrina: I wonder if the thrill of this coat was having found a Burberry trench for $30 at a flea market. Finding a steal sometimes prevents me from reaching wardrobe clarity because it distracts me from getting what I need.
Why do you think you haven't found the right trenchcoat? Have you bought anything that you don't like? Can you send photos? Please include why you don't like your trenchcoat. If you haven't looked, tell me why.